For pre-fall, Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi wanted to infuse more spontaneity into the brand’s luxe offering, revealing the more casual side of the high-end lifestyle the label evokes.
In taking Tod’s craftsmanship to the streets, the designer put a strong focus on outerwear, functionality and layering, mixing influences, silhouettes and textures to dress his modern “tribe,” as he described the range of characters portrayed in this concise yet solid collection. “They are part of the same community but have individual looks,” explained Chiapponi during a preview in Milan.
Hence the array of different styles showcased, ranging from oversize trenchcoats and quilted parkas to a knitted wrap coat nodding to kilim carpets and shown with matching bags. Chiapponi’s penchant for knitwear also was displayed in an elongated striped cardigan with chunky fringe that had a grungy feel, while the house’s signature leather and Gommino pebble motif were used on a classic, ’50s-inspired denim jacket via eccentric patches on the sleeves. “I like how our Gommino [pebble-sole] leaves a distinctive trace when you walk, so I wanted it to leave a mark in the ready to wear, too,” Chiapponi said.
In keeping with his tactile approach, the designer also played with textures in the accessories, ranging from patchwork bags to options shaping soft leather in origami-like, geometric designs.
A ‘60s vibe ran throughout the strong footwear offering: the bold, square-toed proportions and chunky heels of moccasins and ankle boots exalted the everyday appeal of this urban wardrobe, which was filled with covetable essentials.