Zara Taps Calvin Luo for Chinese Designer Crossover

Fast-fashion giant Zara has unveiled a collaboration with Calvin Luo, its second collection with a Chinese designer.

The collection includes 20 pieces of womenswear, menswear, footwear and accessories in black and gray that “caters to the preference and dress code of the new generation of shoppers, offering fashion lovers a diverse range of selections,” the retailer said in a statement.

After teasing it back in October, the collection will be available starting Wednesday in selected stores in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, and on Zara’s e-commerce channels.

Last year, Zara teamed with fashion designer Susan Fang on its first major collaboration for the Chinese market. The collaboration, which featured dreamy dresses and accessories, speedily sold out.

Even though Calvin Luo worked on a small project with Chinese fashion company Peacebird in 2021, this is the first time the Gen Z designer has produced a comprehensive line with a major global brand, complete with a campaign lensed by up-and-coming photographer Johnson Lui.

Luo noticeably shied away from Chinese New Year-related festive elements and created an easygoing collection full of wardrobe staples such as leather jackets, boxy blazers and denim cargo pants fit for young urbanites like him.

The business-savvy designer said he researched Zara’s previous collaborations, including ones with Ader Error and Good American, before coming up with a collection that “reflects Zara’s DNA.”

“It was a smooth design process, we were basically given carte blanche to do the collection. I finished the samples, presented my ideas to their team, sent the samples to their headquarters, and it was done,” said Luo. “They really wanted our brand identity to shine through.”

Luo said the collaboration is an opportunity to expand his retail presence in Hong Kong and Taiwan. “In the long run, I want the brand to become a fashion brand not defined by my nationalities, like Maison Margiela or Marni,” said Luo, who is in Paris preparing for his second physical runway show.

The former design consultant for Lanvin on China-related projects also revealed detailed retail expansion plans for his eight-year-old brand in the Chinese market.

In April, he will open his second stand-alone shop in Shanghai, taking up a storefront previously occupied by Christian Louboutin.

For the second half of 2023, Luo is looking into other key cities in the country to expand his retail footprint.